apricot and almond stars

A literary celebration of food

First We Eat: Like a good meal, ‘One Book One Province’ is meant to offer a shared experience

On the Prairies, the month is a hopeful time for food lovers: we’re perusing seed catalogues, planning our gardens and dreaming about salads made from the season’s first greens.

Comfort food for hard times

Comfort food for hard times

First We Eat: What foods help you find peace in stressful situations? Here’s one of mine

Hand-pulled Shanghai noodles redolent of wok hei, the near-mystical “wok energy” or caramelized smokiness that has been called the breath of a wok, are a revivifying dish of comfort — soul food for hard times.



Cooking Canadian, part 1: Rediscovering cabbage

Cooking Canadian, part 1: Rediscovering cabbage

First We Eat: As Canadian food staples go, cabbage is cheap and plentiful

Cabbage and its bitter cousins — brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and broccoli — can be eaten raw, roasted, grilled, braised, stir-fried, steamed or simmered, best with something equally pungent, like garlic and onions, or salty, like anchovy or bacon.



My small red mortar and pestle set is made of enameled cast iron with an unglazed interior. My larger English clay set is unglazed for good grit when pounding ingredients. Both are heavy and sturdy.

Tools and techniques, part 3: Between a rock and a hard place

First We Eat: Pounding ingredients with a pestle encourages a calm approach to cooking

My mom tells me my counters are too cluttered. “Why don’t you put some of that stuff away?” she asks me repeatedly. Much of the counter space in my old farmhouse kitchen is occupied by electric tools designed to grind foods or to alter their shape: a food processor, blender and coffee mill stand shoulder […] Read more


A crock of wooden spatulas and spurtles and flexible spatulas sits on prime real estate beside my range.

Tools and techniques, part 2: Spurtles and spatulas

First We Eat: Preferring wooden hand tools means keeping a wide assortment

It was too hot in September 2024 in Grass Valley to be wearing my red crocheted holiday elf toque with the white pompom, but gift-giving was on my mind. Mom and I were in California to visit my best beloved auntie, and my cousin had told us about a terrific annual crafters’ sale. lt was […] Read more

calibrating a new oven

Tools and techniques, part 1: Ovens, shmovens

First We Eat: Training a new kitchen range means putting it through all its capabilities

My oven finally surrendered after 15 years of hard use. It was traumatic for me — losing a trusted tool is a shock for any serious cook. After much debate and research, the new range was installed last month. I am getting to know it. That, too, is traumatic. The fact is, frequent usage shortens […] Read more


chewy brownie cookies

Books worth cooking from, part 3: Anna Olson’s Baking Wisdom

First We Eat: The Ontario pastry chef’s book is meant to be accessible to beginners and pros alike

Perusing a library’s shelves, whether virtual or bricks-and-mortar, is always a pleasure, especially when I have food on my mind. To my great joy, I recently found an impressive new baking book from a Canadian pro. Pastry chef and TV/YouTube personality Anna Olson, who is married to chef Michael Olson, is a reassuringly approachable pastry […] Read more

lentils and beans

Books worth cooking from, part 2: My Thali

First We Eat: How a meal can centre around a starch, rather than a protein surrounded by sides

You’ll recall that in my previous column, I posed the question of how many cookbooks a home cook really needs, and which new ones are worth buying or borrowing. Part of my research for this month’s column was to peruse the shortlist of nominees for the 2024 Taste Canada book awards. Several books appealed, but […] Read more