The Saskatchewan Book Awards were a highlight of my family’s spring. My novel, Danceland Diary, was a shortlisted finalist in the fiction category, and we all converged on the awards gala in Saskatoon to mark the occasion.
I decided to have fun regardless of outcome. My novel, which took nine years to write, has received wonderful response and has been made into an audiobook. Being a shortlisted finalist for an award is a rare privilege, so when it happens, writers celebrate!
But it wasn’t my novel’s night to win. Instead, we toasted my friend Anne Lazurko, who won the fiction prize for her powerful Second World War novel, What is Written on the Tongue.
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We also celebrated my friend Naomi Hansen’s book, Only in Saskatchewan: Recipes and Stories from the Province’s Best-Loved Eateries. Naomi took home the First Book Award, and then she claimed the evening’s big prize, Book of the Year, as well.
Like Karen Anderson’s Eat Alberta First, Only in Saskatchewan is a guide to good local food. While Karen writes mostly about growers, Naomi turns her attention to Saskatchewan restaurants, with profiles, signature recipes and a back-of-book ingredients sourcing list. So it’s ideal for cooks as well as those who, like Napoleon’s army, travel on their stomachs.
Mabel Hill Farm Kitchen and Marketplace, east of Nipawin, Sask., is featured in Naomi’s book. It’s an ambitious farm-to-table destination, a gorgeous verandah-wrapped farmhouse, with well-executed, delicious food. As le Guide Michelin would say, worth a detour.
I dropped in for lunch while on a book tour to the region. The room is bright, lit by windows overlooking the verandah, and features a firepit, event centre and garden beds.
I tucked into more food than I thought I could lift, ignoring Miss Piggy’s Muppet-wisdom. The last time I had that many dishes on my table at once, I was still reviewing restaurants in Calgary. The cook in the kitchen took note, and nodded in gratification — and admiringly, too, I think —as he sent out each successive dish.
I packed up my leftovers, then congratulated chef-owner Michael Brownlee after he’d finished lunch with his parents, wife and cute baby daughter.
You can read all about the place’s origins in Naomi’s book, but it’s instructive to know that Michael was raised in the area and that the family keeps a large garden, which they were seeding at the time of my visit.
Local is the loud-and-clear theme, although Michael’s menu wanders the world. A fridge and pantry are well stocked with many house-made items, and an event centre out back could host your next family celebration. What’s missing is a seat at the counter for curious cooks like me to watch the kitchen work.
“Staycation” is a good word any day. Bypass the faraway adventures of Cinque Terre or the Languedoc, and eat local. You’ll be glad you did. So first we eat, and then we walk. If we leave after lunch, we can be in Nipawin by … well, soon.
Mabel Hill Pok Pok Wings
These wings are inspired by a Vietnamese restaurant in Seattle where chef-owner Michael Brownlee dined. They are coupled with a wing-marinating technique he learned while working at Ayden Kitchen and Bar (now closed) in Saskatoon. Serves 4 as a starter.
Marinade:
1 pound chicken wings, patted dry
1 large egg white
2 tablespoons cornstarch,
and extra as needed Canola oil for frying
Dip:
3/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup fish sauce
3 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 1/2 tablespoons lime juice
1 clove garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
Spice mix:
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons onion powder
1/4 teaspoon finely ground chili flakes
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
Garnishes:
1/2 cup crispy fried shallots (found at Asian stores)
8 sprigs cilantro leaves, minced
8 sprigs mint leaves, minced
1 lime, cut in wedges
Use a small, sharp knife to snip the membrane between the first and second section of each wing so the flap of skin will crisp up during cooking. Whisk egg white to stiff peaks. Add cornstarch and whisk until a slurry forms (the texture should be quite elastic). Add wings to mixture and mix thoroughly. Set aside.
Put dip ingredients in a small pot. Bring to a boil, turn off, and steep for 20-30 minutes. Strain, discarding garlic and ginger. Cover and chill.
Stir together spice mix. Combine herbs in a separate bowl. Heat heavy- bottomed medium pot filled 2/3 full with canola oil to 350 F.
Toss wings in a large bowl with an additional 2 tablespoons cornstarch and mix to coat (add enough to make wings feel tacky).
Remove wings from marinade and carefully, one at a time, immerse in hot oil. Fry for 5-6 minutes or until fully cooked.
Remove wings to a clean bowl. Season generously with spice mix. Add herbs and crispy shallots. Toss well. Place wings and toppings on plate with dipping sauce and lime wedges. Serve hot.
